This Tuesday is the Feast of the Chair of Peter. What are we celebrating? Not necessarily a physical chair (at least, not only that) but rather the teaching authority from which the chair flows—the “cathedra” not only of the bishop of Rome but also of the Church at large. [Ironic footnote: the true "cathedra” should be sited in St John Lateran as this is the official cathedral of Rome—oh, well!]
An ancient oak and ivory seat has been preserved since at least the times of Charlemagne, and it was reputed to have been used by Peter himself. It is now enshrined in a massive architectural monument in the apse of St Peter’s—the altar of the Cattedra, created by Bernini. [Historical footnote: it is at this altar that I—and all other seminarians of the North American College—are ordained deacons before returning home to be ordained priests.]
The monument is held up—virtually levitated—by the four great Doctors of the Church: Ambrose and Augustine (with mitres) for the West, and Athanasius and John Chrysostom from the East. All this is the creative genius of Bernini (one of his many artistic achievements at the Vatican).
Did Peter exercise “authority” while in Rome, before his execution during the persecution of Nero? Probably not, in the sense that Pope Pius IX wanted to exercise authority in the 19th century. But was he revered and respected and listened to? Surely he was, and that is the essence of all true authority.
Peter’s grave was a secret but well-known location to Christians. It is interesting that NO other site has ever been put forward as the place of his burial. It was found directly under the high altar in St Peter’s, still marked by a monument (the “tropaion of Gaius”). The bones themselves, found in ways no one (especially the original archaeologists in the 1940s) could have expected, have been authenticated. There are many other “anomalies” about St Peter’s that can be best explained by the presence of the grave, including the original central shrine of Constantine being tilted about 10 degrees off center (a thing Roman designers never did), or the difficulty of building a church on the slope of a hill (a thing no rational designer would ever do!).
It’s very hard (though not 100% impossible) to get a ticket to enjoy a guided tour of the Scavi (the excavations underneath St Peter’s) to see his original burial site. You can view the mammoth and magnificent “Altar of the Chair” (though the relic itself remains out of sight). With all this, we can see the authority (= personal magnetism) of St Peter, even beyond that of St Paul (himself no slouch when it comes to memorial places, including his own tomb). Whether or not you ever do this, please know that 1) you could, and 2) it marks our Faith as historical, not imaginary or fantasized. Just as Jesus was a true historical Person, so were the Apostles and their successors—all the way to Pope Francis.